Tiong Hin Co Tyre – MTB Zone

The handlebar grips are two out of the five attachment points between your body and the bike – and arguably, the two most important ones. Spending some time to get your bars tuned to the perfect width can pay dividends in the handling department and may add some comfort to the ride as well… Everybody is slightly different, so it stands to reason that we all have an optimum measurement for the perfect handlebar. Experimenting with your handlebar’s width can be expensive. You can’t cut your handlebar longer, so we’ll show you how to test various widths without cutting your existing bar until you are positive that you need to. Check out Pinkbike’s Tech Tuesday handlebar video and get a grip on your handlebar width.

Special tools: (left to right) You’ll need a good measuring tape; a hack saw with a fresh fine-tooth blade; a fine-tooth file or some sandpaper, and a Park Tool saw guide would be nice.

Wide Bars Vs Narrow Bars video link below:
How Wide?

What you’ll need:

• A small measuring tape.
• Hex keys and perhaps a set of Torx keys.
• A test handlebar that is wider (if you are planning to go that direction).
• Hack saw with 24 teeth per inch or less.
• A saw guide like Park tool makes would be handy.
• 120 grit sand paper or a fine half-round file to smooth cut edges.

Handlebar Tips:

• Make small changes and put in a few long sessions before you pass judgment on a new setup.
• Tune your bike to suit your riding style, not someone else’s. If you accept set-up advice from a chimpanzee, then you better look like one.
• You may have to reset your lever angle and placement slightly if a change in handlebar width alters your position on the bike
• Ask around to see if a friend has a spare bar at a wider or narrower width he will loan you for a test period.

Installing and adjusting your pedal cleats is best done well before your important ride or race. Although the process is quite simple, you should take the time to get it right. Each new pair of shoes and sometimes a new bike can alter the feel of the pedals when you are riding in earnest. Don’t skip over the heel-to-crankarm measuring step – this is the reference you’ll need to make minor changes later. Another good tip is to use your normal saddle height before you start the process, and when you are checking the fit, stand up and pedal for a spell to ensure that all bases are covered.

What You’ll need: SPD compatible cycling shoes, a sharpie marking pen, a ruler or accurate measuring device, and a set of cleats. We are using Shimano, but the same method works for nearly all types.

Step One: The first step is finding the ball of your foot.The pedal axle needs to line up with this joint to promote effective pedaling. The pen is pointing at the ball of the foot. You’ll need to find this spot when the shoe is on.

Step Two: Put on your shoes and then squeeze around the inside of the foot to locate the center of the ball of each foot.

Step Three: After you locate the ball of the foot through the shoe, mark the spot on the sole with a Sharpie pen.

Step Four: Draw a level line across the pedal using your mark. Center the cleat along the line you drew and screw it down snugly (don’t tighten it completely yet), I drew in a second line below the original – if you ride technical sections, or jump a lot, some riders like to set the cleat back 5 millimeters to add stability to the foot.

Step Five: Ride around for a bit and then stop at the 12, 3, 6, and 9-o’clock posiitions of the crank rotation. Check each position for side to side play in the cleat. If your shoe is binding to one side, make a note if it’s being forced to the right or left at each stop of the clock.

Step Six: Set the crank at the forward, 9-o’clock position, and then measure the distance from the center of the crank arm to somewhere on the heel. Use this as a reference when you adjust the angle of the cleat. Make 1/4 inch (5mm) adjustments to achieve best results.

Step Seven: After establishing the distance from the heel to the crank arm, remove the shoe and make small angular adjustments to correct any binding in the crank circle. Ride and recheck at all four positions. If all is go, tighten the cleats and ride. Remember, you’ll need to retighten the cleats after your first long day in the saddle.

To all our value customer, we will be closed for renovation starting today, 11th July 2011, and likely for the next 2 weeks till further notice. If you are in urgent need to purchase anything from us, or dropping/collecting your bike for overhaul service, fork/shox overhaul services, kindly take note of our temporary location, Blk 28, Sin Ming Lane, #04-133, Midview City, Singapore (573972). Strictly by appointment so do contact, or sms Melvin @ 96874048 to arrange.

A suspension servicing will always be essential if you want to maintain your fork and shox for maximum life and racing performance. A well maintained and tuned suspension will performs at its best.

As the Authorized Distributor for Manitou Suspension, we offer a wide range of all types of after-sales services, repairs, and tuning options for the entire Manitou range. Besides that, we also provide suspension tuning and whole new servicing for Rock Shox, Marzocchi and Fox Racing Shox suspension range with Stendec products, tuning/service options to your personal specification.

• STENDEC CRYSTAL SUSPENSION OILS

Probably the most important element in your suspension is oil – what type you use, how often it is replaced and what volume is used. Stendec has developed its own range of both fork and rear shock oil which greatly enhances performance. Apart from performing the dampening operation Crystal oils protect and therefore prolong the life of any unit – a strong consideration when choosing what type of oil to use.

Stendec Crystal Fork oil is a formulated HSF fluid made from base oils and performance additives containing a radical new type of anti foaming agent. Crystal fluid is compatible with all seals and other fork components and actually increases seal life. Available in 2.5, 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20 and 30 weight, all grades can be mixed if required to produce a mid weight blend. Apart from offering excellent temperature stability and dampening its particularly slippy consistency also reduces fork leg stiction.

More informations at Stendec-Works

Fork Overhaul services

• Disassembly and Assembly of entire Fork
• Inspection of Fork externals and internals
• Suspension Fluid change with Stendec oils
• Compression damper test

Fork Custom Tuning services

• High speed compression shim stack tuning
• Low speed compression shim stack tuning
• Speed needle tuning
• Suspension Fluid velocity weight mix tuning

Fork Travel change services

• Increment or reduction of travel of the Fork

Rear Shock Air Sleeve change services

• Disassembly and Assembly of Air Sleeve
• Inspection of Shox externals and internals
• Air Sleeve change

A mountain bike servicing will always be essential if you want to maintain your bike for maximum life and performance. A well maintained bike performs at its best and also ensures that your components last longer. All the training in the world won’t help if you get a mechanical fault in a big race, so limit those chances by being well prepared. We provide an overhaul bike service which involves stripping your bike down to the frame and its components.

Full Mountain Bike Service at $100 for hardtail and Full Mountain Bike Service at $120 for full suspension.

Overall process done during the overhaul of your bike,

Wheelset

• Clean and lube internal bearings
• Clean and lube internal freehub or spring/pawls mechanism
• Clean entire wheelset
• Alignment dishing of wheelset and spokes tension
• Disassembly at first and assembly of tires and inner tubes in the end of process

Drive Train

• Clean and lube chain
• Clean and lube rear derailleur including Jockey wheels bearings and bushing
• Clean and lube Cassette
• Clean and lube front derailleur
• Clean and lube Crank chainring and pedal thread
• Clean and lube Bottom bracket bearings and shell

Disc Brakes

• Clean and align piston of disc caliper
• Clean and lub seals of caliper piston
• Clean brake pads
• Bleed brake system if necessary
• Alignment of caliper to rotor
• Dishing of rotor

V Brakes

• Clean brake pads
• Clean and lube V brake caliper and springs
• Alignment of V brake to rim

Frame

• Clean and lube fork seals external
• Clean and lube headset bearings
• Clean and lube bottom bracket treads
• Full-sus frame will be stripped entirely and overhaul of pivot bearings to clean and lube

Cockpit

• Clean and lube all necessary bolts and pivot points
• Shifter internal mechanism will be clean and lube
• Shifter inner cables will be clean with pressure and lube

Final

• Pedal bearings or bushing will be clean and lub
• Torque level of bolts will be torque to specific manufacture specifications
• Set up and assemble entire bike completely and ensuring safety by testing all necessary test on the bike to little details on all bearings and moving pivots on the bike!

*Please note all service charges are for labour only, and any parts required will be at additional cost.